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Officially, India's princes are no more. The Maharajas, who for generations held sway over one third of the sub-continent, have been 'de-recognised'. Yet although the powers are gone, the trappings - and the memories - remain. Members of the royal families talk of the past. - of fierce battles and heroic sacrifices of life in the zenana or harem, of hunting, fabled wealth and the golden years under British paramount rule.