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Going on the theory that to understand a city you have to know its central train station, we explore Mumbai's VT station, a treasure of Indian heritage and port of call for over a billion travelers each year. To understand the relationship between the city and the station we meet with local residents, intellectuals, and station workers who can tell us the secrets of the station's history and daily workings. Called "a microcosm of Mumbai," speaking with VT workers reveals a method to the daily commuter madness, and we learn to enjoy the crowds and pace through the eyes of people who know it best.